2018 Bouzeron AOC, Jean-Claude Ramonet

Bouzeron AOP, Côte Chalonaisse, Bourgogne

Aligoté gets serious here, but then again this is Ramonet. Synonymous with beauty and effortless precision, a Burgundian leader for over a century. The kind of serious that demands your attention not by force of fruit or stature, but by the tone of its voice. Clear and resonant. It’s not often we see this kind of intensity with Aligoté. The heat of 2018 was still no match for its natural acidity, but it gave density and weight—providing a textural counterbalance. An obviously well-made wine at first sip. Worthy of cellaring another 8-10 years, if not much longer (tasted winter 2023).

N Stony and saline—rock beach at low tide. The clean, pearly side of an oyster shell. If you’re looking for fruit, forget it.

P Tightly woven from start to finish. Searing acid. Surprising weight on the midpalate. Subtle spice on the finish with a touch of that introverted, bottle-conditioned character. This wine wants to be served warmer than you think. Let it sit in the glass a little while before pairing it with something rich and salty. Think cacio e pepe with miso butter, Kizami nori and toasted sesame ;)

$ British Columbia, private wine shops—$65

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Fynbos & Long-Awaited Freedom